The Year I Gave Up On The Geylang Serai Bazaar

As I type this, two world leaders are wrapping up a historical summit. What does this have to do with this subject? Well, I find it weird that the once unbelievable notion of good US-North Korea relations is a more likely reality than our beloved Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar ever regaining the magic, spirit and atmosphere that it was once famous for.

Because that’s what it is isn’t it? What we’ve all been complaining about over the past few years? That Geylang Serai has lost its magic when it comes to its famous bazaar held during the month of Ramadhan?

So – what telah happened? Why are we so unhappy?

I’ve been thinking about this a lot. And I’ve been reading and hearing about it a lot both online and offline. So I’m posting this now – at the tail end of this holy month – because, well, I want to make sure that nobody thinks I’m being presumptuous or just someone who’s griping for the sake of griping.

One of the things people (including myself) keep mentioning is the food. Now don’t get me wrong – there is plenty of good food at the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar. But simply not enough good food and to put it bluntly – not enough Halal / Muslim-owned stalls. (But we’ll talk about that a little more later on)

A majority of the food to be found at the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar is now modern. I believe the trending term is – hipster. Food made for the Instagram generation. Food that may or may not be tasty but it almost definitely looks good for a photo and almost definitely costs more than it is worth. Something called an ‘Edible Balloon’ costs $8.90. Yes, you’re paying $8.90 for air. No, I am not playing the role of an out-of-fashion old poop who cannot seem to appreciate something that’s so ‘cool’. I can appreciate a good gimmick. But this one was just beyond me lah sorry. And I’m pretty sure there were other things from other stalls in the same category. (PS this stall was not Halal / Muslim-owned. But we’ll talk about that a little more later on)

I have nothing against modern hipster food. Not only do I sometimes enjoy it, I even sometimes endorse it! But when I talk to people and I read stuff online, I kinda get the feeling that a lot of people have the same idea as me – that we really miss the old-school street food. Food like Ayam Percik on bamboo skewers, Putu Bambu and Roti Daging Sedap (sauce mau lebih). Food like Otah-Otah, Apam Balik and a Ramly Burger that doesn’t suck. The kind of food that we associate with the bazaar. The kind of food you may even only get to enjoy once a year at the bazaar. The kind of food that is either going extinct or getting more expensive because the vendors need to keep up with the rising costs.

Which brings me to my next point.

This year, a 2.7m x 2.7m stall at the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar will cost vendors about $20,000. Bigger stalls will obviously cost more. And I’m pretty sure extras like power points etc will add on to that price. The prices this year are apparently higher than last year. In 2017, there was a report that there were 2 organizers who won the tender and were in control of the rentals for the bazaar. This year, only 1 company won the tender.

Is this why there are so many stalls selling hipster food at high prices? Because these are the types of food that will attract more people to come and buy? Because simple, old-school foods no longer cut it and can no longer sustain a business?

Why can’t the rent be a bit more controlled to ease the burden on the vendors? Why stick to the tender system which is driving prices up for everybody? And by the way – why are stall at the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar so bloody expensive? A Straits Times report states that stalls at Little India during Deepavali are priced between $6,000 and $10,000 for 40 days. #JustSaying

Okay so maybe it’s extremely difficult to change this whole pricing system. But I think a better job can be done when it comes to the foods being sold. The least we can do is make it MAJORITY Halal / Muslim-owned right? I’m not saying 100%… just a majority would make most people happy right?

The team from Halalfoodhunt.com released a list last year – a list of Halal / Muslim-owned stalls that they personally went to verify on the ground. Yes, there was controversy when it comes to that list but you have to admit – it made people a bit more aware of the situation. People were reminded to #AskTheQuestion. Gone are the days when you didn’t really need to worry much when it came to the food at the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar. But these days, this is sadly not the case.

I attended a media event for the launch of the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar just before Ramadhan. I was all set with questions in mind but in the end, I listened to what the MPs had to say with arms folded and my spirit dejected. “We have heard the feedback from the public” and yet this year, the situation is the same. The design of the lights seemed more important than bringing back the spirit of the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai Geylang Serai Bazaar.

And why can’t you just call it Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai? Does it sound that vulgar? I’m not saying that no other races can come and join in the festivities. I’m just saying that the bazaar is being held during Ramadhan and it the primary audience is the Muslim community leading up to Hari Raya Aidilfitri. That’s all.

In 2010, you could barely find a parking space in the vicinity. You were elbow to elbow with strangers all around you with stall vendors using loudhailers saying “bergerak bergerak bergerak” to keep everyone moving briskly and avoid a human a jam. You would do a little shopping then get your food and link up with friends under one of the nearby blocks at Haig Road. You would soak in that magical atmosphere and spirit that only the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai could bring for that one special month every year.

I have visited the bazaar only twice this year – once for a food assignment (before Ramadhan even started) and one afternoon to buy baju kurung. To be honest, I spent more time at the Hari Raya Bazaar at Our Tampines Hub not only because it was closer to home but I could get some really good food there including the elusive (and very legit) Putu Bambu. In the past, I would make multiple visits to Geylang Serai during Ramadhan – some years as many as 10 or more. But this year, simply put – I could not be bothered. I gave up.

That does not mean I am not hopeful. Hopeful that in years to come, changes will be made and that somehow, the glory of the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai will creep back into our lives albeit for just a month. Maybe I’m a sentimental fool with high hopes.

But, I will still keep my annual tradition of heading down to Geylang Serai on the night before Hari Raya (if there is one night where it’s guaranteed to be ribut – it’ll be Malam Raya for sure!) to walk the grounds and soak in as much as I can while I still can. You may even see me walking past you with some Dendeng in my hand.

And as we pass, I will give you a wry smile and we will exchange a friendly nod of the head. And I am sure that in our minds, we are both reminiscing about how it used to be at the Bazaar Ramadhan Geylang Serai.